It doesn't take much time on the Romney Marsh in Kent for my batteries to be re-charged, as assuredly as the ones in my cameras become discharged with every click of the shutter. Surprisingly for the time of the year it was very peaceful and quiet, winding slowly down remote lanes overshadowed by trembling white poplars and willows, sheep bleating animatedly at me every time I got out of the car. I felt utterly alone, but none the worse for that. The top photograph is of the church at Kenardington, not quite on the marsh but nevertheless winking at me continuously from its knoll above a bean field on the higher ground to the north. I think one of the reasons for my passion for these atmospheric acres is the colour palette of greens (particularly the dark) and brick reds in the houses and church roofs. The tile-hung building with the white picket fence is Hook Hall, not far from Brookland, and the beautifully isolated church is the remarkable Fairfield. Well-used as a location in Mike Newell's film of Great Expectations (2012), it was where Pip met Magwitch.
And so up off the marsh at Appledore, but not before crossing the Ashford to Hastings railway line where trains still stop at the station. And here another gratifying note was struck. Wanderers in Unmitigated England will know of my distaste for most of today's bus and train liveries, but the Southern seems to have got it just about right here for trains traversing the marsh, and indeed through the greenery of Kent and Sussex generally. My certificate of approval too for their adaptation of the original Southern Railway lettering for the train sides.
The other side of the marsh is of course Dungeness, which never fails me for one reason another. More of this shortly.
Always reminds me of the Dr Syn books by Russell Thorndyke. Well before my time, of course; but ripping yarns set in this slightly mysterious part of England.
Fantastic. You're right, I think, about the greens and reds. Sitting here in the Cotswolds, where everything is built of stone, I do sometimes find it all a bit beige. Those red walls and roofs in Sussex and Kent really help.
I remember listening to the Dr Syn books on Radio 4 Extra a few years ago. I am sure they will repeat them sooner or later. I wish I was down on the Romney Marsh and visiting Rye.
I am a designer, writer and photographer who spends all his time looking at England, particularly buildings and the countryside. But I have a leaning towards the slightly odd and neglected, the unsung elements that make England such an interesting place to live in. I am the author and photographer of over 25 books, in particular Unmitigated England (Adelphi 2006), More from Unmitigated England (Adelphi 2007), Cross Country (Wiley 2011), The Cigarette Papers (Frances Lincoln 2012), Preposterous Erections (Frances Lincoln 2012) and English Allsorts (Adelphi 2015)
"Open this book with reverence. It is a hymn to England". Clive Aslet
Preposterous Erections
"Enchanting...delightful". The Bookseller "Cheekily named" We Love This Book
The Cigarette Papers
"Unexpectedly pleasing and engrossing...beautifully illustrated". The Bookseller
Cross Country
"Until the happy advent of Peter Ashley's Cross Country it has, ironically, been foreigners who have been best at celebrating Englishness". Christina Hardyment / The Independent
More from Unmitigated England
"Give this book to someone you know- if not everyone you know." Simon Heffer, Country Life. "When it comes to spotting the small but telling details of Englishness, Peter Ashley has no equal." Michael Prodger, Sunday Telegraph
6 comments:
Always reminds me of the Dr Syn books by Russell Thorndyke. Well before my time, of course; but ripping yarns set in this slightly mysterious part of England.
Hello Mike, you've just reminded me that I planned to get a copy of the Thorndyke book to read whilst I was down there. Alas...
Absolutely delightful. My feelings about the place exactly. No ice cream sales in Rye this time?
Fantastic. You're right, I think, about the greens and reds. Sitting here in the Cotswolds, where everything is built of stone, I do sometimes find it all a bit beige. Those red walls and roofs in Sussex and Kent really help.
I remember listening to the Dr Syn books on Radio 4 Extra a few years ago. I am sure they will repeat them sooner or later. I wish I was down on the Romney Marsh and visiting Rye.
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